It should work on treated pine. If I was you I'd try it out on some scrap first and see how that goes. As for the tinting, really depends on the age of the wood and sun exposure - I'd take a wood sample to your local paint supplier and get them to match to the colour you are looking for. I'd suggest mixing the tint slightly thinner than you need and apply many light coats to build up the colour to what you want - that way you remain in control of the job.
Hi Eco Guy, that s sounds great as I also have an expensive deck. Can you please advise me where to purchase or who makes the terobene as I cannot seem to locate it. Thanks and good work as you have saved a lot of people a lot of money.
Hi just wanting to know does the raw linseed oil make the timber decking stain a lot darker than normal and how long would using the Raw Linseed oil 4 parts
Mineral turps 11 parts Terobene (drying agent) 1 part last before re-applying Cheers David
It sure sounds great to me.........I am going to try a small batch for some treated pine outdoor furniture which I have made.........I will even go out on a limb and try tinting it to match some other furniture close by.........Dark tile grout or brickies mortar tint powder might do the trick.......Eh !.......coloured Clay and Ochre etc has worked for centuries as a tinting medium in many cultures and has stood the test of time,for sure.
Hello. You could use low odour turps with your mixture. It may save the smell a bit. You can but it in Cairns under Diggers brand.
I tried engine oil and kero a couple of times. It goes prettty dark but stops the wood rotting. I ended up cleaning it off before I came across your receipe and used a shop bought oil. Cheers
HI I'm from Canada and am about to recoat our deck which we have just fully sanded down. Can you tell me what Mineral turps is? Never heard of it and I am wondering if it is an aussie term. lol!
From wikipedia: Mineral turpentine, also known as turpentine substitute, turps substitute, or just turps is an inexpensive petroleum-based replacement for the vegetable-based turpentine. It is commonly used as a paint thinner for thinning oil-based paint and cleaning brushes, and as an organic solvent in other applications.
Hi Eco Guy,
Thanks so much for this 'recipe'! Could you tell me, as our deck is narrow and close to things that we don't want to hit with overspray, could we paint this mixture on with a paintbrush? I'm also wondering how much to buy in the way of ingredients as I'm not sure what the coverage would be. Would you know what the expectation would be per square metre for 2 thin coats, please? We have stairs and decking that measures about 65m2.
Coverage is about 500ml (0.5L) per meter square I'd say of finished mixed product. Really comes down to how 'hungry' your wood is for it. Also do not overcoat, as anything which sits on the surface just does not soak in and goes tacky on you and then turns black from all the dirt and crud that sticks to it and is worse in open deck areas - the premixed oil based products will do exactly the same BTW. You want to be _just_ under over feeding it.
Hi again Eco Guy,
Doesn't that make this more expensive than something like Bondall (17m2/L, single coat) or Feast & Watson (6-10m2 per litre, single coat)? Or is there more to it than that?
Let me check with the lady of the house.. It's actually around 100ml per meter square atm. As I said it depends how hungry the wood is as to how many times you need to apply. If you buy the ingredients in volume once you have found it works for you, should be somewhat cheaper than the premixed versions.
I recently used decking oil but my sons spilt it on the outdoor rubber/cork type mterial tiles. What can I use to remove the decking oil without removing the colour from the tiles and cleaning the surface? Your assistance would be greatly appreciated. Cheers Darren
Hi Eco Guy, thanks for sharing the recipe and wisdom :) Did you mean TerEbene rather than terObene??? the former is all that comes up when I google it..... Am trying to find out of it's toxic as I have a baby who will be eating off of the decking no doubt and we are super conscious of chemicals in our house. Any info would be fab. Not alot found on google. Cheers! Kim
If you have 10 litres of liquid consisting of orange juice, Coca cola and gin, in which 2 parts are gin, 4 parts are orange juice and 4 parts are Coca Cola, then each part is 1 litre. 2+4+4=10. If you had a very big deck, then
Raw Linseed oil 4 parts, Mineral turps 11 parts, Terobene (drying agent)1 part would give you 16 Litres of decking mix if each part were 1 litre, but if each part is a teacup full, then you would have 11 cupfulls of decking mix.
Ok the mix sounds great but has anyone compared price per liter or are we assuming this is cheaper
Crystal paints do a natural deck oil for $30 for 4 litres which works out to be $120 for 16 litres
Basic add up for 16 litres of Eco mix is $146 unless Ive got wrong prices on each item it seems cheaper to buy from retailer ??? What's your price per litre mr Eco guy ??? Only have 240m2 to cover that's all please help with pricing
The price (as always) depends on the volume you need. Do remember you will need to keep reapplying this mix every once in a while. So do a sample mix to see if it works for you, but don't use the price points of that to determine the cost going forwards. If it does work for you - buy in volume, the ingredients won't go off I assure you.
You'll have to coat 4 times a year if you use linseed as it doesn't have any UV absorbtion properties. A better value option is to pay for a quality decking oil that has been designed for purpose. This will require far less maintenance.
Maybe, but if you are having to coat 4 times a year, then any consumer commercial product would also require a higher rate of application - so your period of maintenance may go down, but the costs would still be greater.
There are professional grade decking products which are actually rated for multiyear coverage - although again that is ideal conditions and also you need to make sure that your application is spot on; otherwise you have a blotchy look to your deck. These work by effectively sealing your deck with a coating that has a built in stain. But yet again what you save in maintenance you pay for in cost.
I'm in the process of trying to restore my hardwood decking after some fairly poor quality treatment and I have a question:
Do you have a specific reason for using raw linseed oil instead of boiled?
I've been using a similar mixture to yours for restoring the finish on furniture for about 40 years but using boiled linseed oil not raw. I hadn't thought of using it outside though.
On furniture, raw linseed never really dries and remains slightly tacky attracting dirt, whereas boiled linseed oil mixed about 1 to 2 with turps, is absorbed quickly and dries in a few hours.
Maybe you just don't have boiled linseed where you are but I'd be interested to know if you've tried it. Check out the characteristics of both on the net under furniture restoration and you'll see what I mean.
Thanks for the idea of making your own decking oil in any case.
I've been using linseed oil for many years. I only dilute it with real turpentine for the first coat or if the deck has been neglected for a long time. The black stuff is mould. The boiled L.O. does not go any blacker than raw L.O. They go black only if you slather the stuff around. It is very important to use only as much as is needed to buff up. Don't allow pools of it lying on the surface. No way would I use terebine which is extremely bad for the ozone layer. It's completely unnecessary. Petro-chemical derived mineral turps is also not good for the environment. Use the lovely real stuff which comes from pine trees. Still works out heaps cheaper than proprietary products. I use linseed inside and outside.
Don't use vegetable oils which simply don't go hard and impenetrable like linseed does, so do not protect.
Inside I maintain the floors once a year with a simple wipe with an almost dry oily rag. Too easy!
Linseed oil is an excellent massage oil for sprains on horse's legs. Funny thing is that after using it on my horse I found that it had also eased the arthritis in my fingers. Like linen, it comes from the flax plant.
water based 'oils' are not oils, they are coatings like paint, and not compatible ... avoid them as they require less initial maintenance but a lot of surface prep when re-coating is needed ... and can’t put real oil over that stuff ... unless rub back to raw bare timber.
Your post has brought forward some very original and unique thoughts. I like how you expressed your points in an easy to read format. Thank you for writing such clear and concise material. Good reading.
I put in around 100 sq meters of deck a couple of years ago. I have been using boiled linseed oil and turps (half and half). It works well, but yes you do have to repeat a couple of times over summer using less oil to turps, however I have used Cabots decking oil, thinking it would last longer as it was more expensive, but alas I got a fairly similar result.
I strip the deck in spring with Napisan (diluted in water, I believe the acid is similar to what is used in professional deck cleaning products - Oxalic Acid from memory?) It certainly strips all the oil off and gets it ready to oil) Then I rinse with pressure washer and wait until dry. Then I add the oil/turps mix with a cheap sponge floor cleaner from the hardware (one that you can squeeze out) I tried the lambswool, but it put too much on in spots and didn't work for me.
I will try with the Terebene next Spring to see if it lasts longer. It's looking a little sad at the moment, being the middle of a very, wet winter.
Thanks for your post. Glad I found it, even if is a couple of years after it was written
Been reading all your advice on how to use decking stains, but simply can't seem to find terobene/terebene the drying agent. Please help-really need to know where I can find it. Does it go under any other name or brand or something in US?
Has anybody tried ECODECKOIL?
Google for it...
It's made in Australia for thud climate and is reputed to penetrate deeply and be the best thing since apple pie.
I have a new weathered large deck that I believe will do well with this product.
Any opinions to share please?
Keeping your timber outdoor furniture oiled is the core key to its long life. Generally, all the woods have some of their own natural oils. But, it dries when the woods face direct sunlight and the furniture becomes completely exposed to the natural elements. Some people like the old grey look on the furniture, but if you are not one of them, then the cleaning and oiling should be done 3-4 time a year, depending on the elemental and sunlight exposure it bears. Look for oils which are water, fungi and mould resistant.
I have used Cabot's decking oil on my front deck. I was a bit lazy with the second coat and have accidentally oiled a bit of the weatherboards.
Any advice on how to clean the oil off without affecting the paint too much. (I don't really want to repaint the house at this stage).
Thanks for the recipe! I have a lot of un-used, unwanted Kerosene left laying around at my place, do you think I could substitute some of the turps with kero?
PS: I didn't know Terebene was available at Mitre 10 in Australia so I bought some online from the UK.
Well, the United States, in it's INFINITE wisdom, doesn't seem to have terebine (terobene). And I'm fed up with the stuff we do have for decking. I tried Australian Timer Oil, twice, and haven't been pleased with it. Any idea for a replacement for the treobene?
If Pale Boiled linseed oil has a drying agent agent to it already, why not use that, instead of having to find the terebene to add to raw linseed oil...?
(I have indeed noticed that objects coated in raw linseed oil get mouldy, apparently, old fellahs used to add"tri-butyl tin" to their decking oil mixtures... doubtless there will be other, more friendly fungicides available today...)
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